Being cool was a response to the rapid changes of modernity: it was about maintaining a state of equipoise within swirling, dynamic social forces. The legendary jazz saxophonist Lester Young disseminated the word and concept of cool into jazz culture in the early 1940s, and it quickly crossed over as a rebel masculine sensibility. When Young said, “I’m cool,” he meant, first, that he was relaxed in the environment and, second, that he was keeping it together under social and economic pressure as well as the absurdity of life in a racist society. This mask of cool emerged as a form of American stoicism and was manifested in jazz, film noir, Beat literature, and abstract expressionism. In jazz, a generation of younger musicians rejected big-band swing entertainment to create bebop, a fast, angular, virtuosic style that moved jazz out of dance halls and into nightclubs. In Hollywood, film noir represented postwar anxiety inthrough crime dramas shot through with working-class existentialism and the fear of women’s sexual and economic power. Among Beat writers and abstract painters, cool referred to a combination of wildness and intensity in men unconcerned with social conformity. Starting from jazz, cool was a rebel sensibility suggesting that an individual’s importance could be registered only through self-expression and the creation of a signature style. By 1960 cool was the protean password of a surging underground aesthetic.
Humphrey Bogart 1899–1957
Philippe Halsman (1906–1979)
Gelatin silver print, 1944
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Lauren Bacall born 1924
Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898–1995)
Reproduction print from 1949 original
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Marlon Brando 1924–2004
Philippe Halsman (1906–1979)
Gelatin silver print, 1950 (printed later)
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Billie Holiday 1915–1959
Bob Willoughby (1927–2009)
Gelatin silver print, 1951 (printed 1991)
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James Dean 1931–1955
Roy Schatt (1909–2002)
Gelatin silver print, 1954
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Miles Davis 1926–1991
Aram Avakian (1926–1987)
Reproduction print from 1955 original
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Frank Sinatra 1915–1998
Herman Leonard (1923–2010)
Gelatin silver print, c. 1956
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