The Legacies of Cool: 1980–Present

In 1980s America, the selling of rebellion as style became ingrained in cool. From highbrow fashion to mass-culture video games, product designers, advertisers, and consumers embraced the cool aesthetic. For many during this era, selling out was no longer a curse, as youth culture increasingly embraced the pursuit of wealth. And though some might proclaim that cool was dead, the concept stayed alive and grew in many quarters. From hip-hop to Seattle grunge, from skateboarding to the Internet, from street graffiti to MTV, cool became central to many of these new cultural forms. While its popularization tended to whiten this phenomenon, African American culture remained central to its growth. By the 1980s cool also had an easily recognizable history, and many figures from its past—like heroes from a bygone era—continued to resonate widely. Indeed, new icons of cool often built careers that owed much to these earlier exemplars. Throughout the twentieth century, cool was America’s chief cultural export. With the rapid growth of global communication and markets, it plays an even larger role both in the world’s understanding of America and in Americans’ own sense of national identity. The figures in this final section are representative of the legacies of cool as a distinct form of American expression.




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David Byrne born 1952
Marcia Resnick (born 1950)
Gelatin silver print, 1981
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Madonna born 1958
Kate Simon (born 1953)
Gelatin silver print, 1983 (printed 2013)
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Jean-Michel Basquiat 1960–1988
Dmitri Kasterine (born 1932)
Gelatin silver print, 1986
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Kurt Cobain 1967–1994
Mark Seliger (born 1959)
Platinum palladium print, 1993
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Tony Hawk born 1968
Martin Schoeller (born 1968)
Archival pigment print, 1999 (printed 2010)
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Benicio Del Toro born 1967
Cass Bird (born 1975)
Inkjet print, 2008 (printed 2012)
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